Nobody sees what's underneath a finished deck, which is exactly why it's easy to underestimate. The ground prep done before a single frame post goes in has more to do with how well a deck drains, resists weeds and holds up over the years than almost anything visible above it. Here's what we actually put under a deck on a Canberra build, and why skipping it causes problems that don't show up until well after the job's finished.
What's Actually Required Under a Deck
At a minimum, the ground under a deck needs to be cleared, reasonably level, and graded with a slight fall so water moves away rather than sitting still. Footings need to be sized for the soil and the load above them, and there should be enough clearance underneath the frame for air to actually move — a deck built hard down against damp, still ground is asking for trouble regardless of what timber or composite you've chosen for the boards on top. A drainage layer, almost always gravel, sits on top of that graded ground to finish the job properly.
Gravel vs Weed Mat vs Bare Ground
A compacted gravel bed is what we use as standard — it drains freely, breaks up the capillary path that would otherwise pull ground moisture upward, and makes it much harder for weeds to establish underneath the deck. Weed mat or geotextile fabric on its own helps slow weed growth in the short term, but without gravel over the top it can trap moisture against the soil rather than letting it drain, and it tends to degrade well before the deck above it does. Bare ground with nothing over it is the option we'd steer you away from — weeds find their way up through the board gaps, moisture sits directly against the frame, and it creates exactly the damp, cluttered conditions that pests are drawn to underneath a deck.

Managing Canberra's Clay Soil and Drainage
Canberra's clay-heavy soil holds onto moisture and shifts noticeably between wet and dry periods, which makes what's under the deck more important here than it might be on a sandier block elsewhere. A gravel bed helps break the direct contact between that moisture-holding clay and the timber or steel sitting above it. Getting the fall right matters just as much — the same gentle slope, typically around 1:100, that we build into the decking surface itself also applies to the graded ground underneath, directing water away from the gravel bed and the house rather than letting it pool against the footings.
Common Mistakes That Cause Pooling or Pests
The most common issue we see on older or DIY decks is ground that was never properly graded, so water collects underneath after rain and simply sits there instead of draining away. Skipping the gravel layer entirely and leaving bare dirt or grass under the deck is another one — it invites weeds and creates a damp, cluttered space that pests are drawn to. Laying gravel too thin so weeds punch straight through it defeats the purpose almost as much as skipping it. And leaving no ventilation clearance at all under the frame means moisture and fallen leaves build up with nowhere to dry out, which is a slow but reliable way to shorten the life of the structure above.

Getting Ground Prep Right Before the Frame Goes In
Ground prep isn't a step we treat as optional or add on at the end — grading, drainage and the gravel bed all get planned in before the first footing goes in. Our custom deck design and build process includes assessing what your specific block needs underneath before we talk about what goes on top. If you're planning a new deck in Tuggeranong, our local team can tell you exactly what your ground prep should look like after seeing the site.
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